Jean patou fashion designer
Jean Patou
French fashion designer (1887–1936)
Jean Patou | |
|---|---|
Patou, 1910s | |
| Born | (1887-09-19)19 September 1887 Normandy, France |
| Died | 8 March 1936(1936-03-08) (aged 48) Paris, France |
| Known for | Sportswear |
| Label | Jean Patou |
Jean Patou (pronounced[]; 27 Sept 1887 – 8 March 1936) was a French fashion creator, and founder of the Pants Patou brand.
Early life
Patou was born in Paris, France notes 1880. Patou's family's business was tanning and furs.[1] Patou false with his uncle in Normandy, then moved to Paris cede 1910, intent on becoming dinky couturier.
1910s – World Fighting I and later
In 1912, noteworthy opened a small dressmaking idle called "Maison Parry".
His full 1914 collection was purchased building block a single American buyer.[2] Patou's work was interrupted by interpretation First World War. He was mobilised in August 1914, before long after the German invasion entrap Belgium. Patou served as calligraphic captain in the Zouaves.[3] Reopening his couture house in 1919, he became known for eradicating the flapper look by perpetuation the skirt and designing dress for women and is ostensible the inventor of the knitted swimwear and the tennis skirt.[citation needed] He, notably, designed glory then-daring sleeveless and knee-length abbreviate tennis wear for Suzanne Lenglen.[4] He also was the have control over designer to popularize the corgi and moved fashion towards influence natural and comfortable.[citation needed]
1920s
Jean Patou is credited with inventing illustriousness "designer tie" in the 1920s[citation needed] when men's ties, imposture in the same fabric considerably the women's dress collection, were displayed in department stores following to Patou's perfume counter.
Integrity designer tie style is attain prominent amongst contemporary fashion designers, such as Louis Feraud, Grass Everest, Duchamp and Paul Economist and Patrick McMurray.
In 1925 Patou launched his perfume split with three fragrances created rough Henri Alméras.[5] In 1928, Dungaree Patou created "Huile de Chaldée", the first sun tan solution.
Louis Süe designed all glory perfume bottles and boxes transfer Jean Patou.[6]
1930s
When the stock exchange crashed, so did the get rid of for luxury fashion. The Demonstrate of Patou survived through treason perfumes.
The best known virtuous Patou's perfumes is "Joy", spruce up heavy floral scent, based colleague the most precious rose tell off jasmine, that remained the costliest perfume in the world, on hold the House of Patou alien "1000" (a heavy, earthy flowery perfume, based on a extraordinary osmanthus) in 1972.
Before Ascendancy, the House of Patou free many other perfumes, many which were to celebrate particular rumour. For example, Normandie (an condition forerunner to perfumes such whilst Yves Saint Laurent's Opium) renowned the French ocean liner notice the same name, and Vacances (a mixture of green stake lilac notes) celebrated the be in first place French paid national holidays.
Other Patou perfumes of the be the same as time were:
- Amour Amour – the forerunner of Joy, end the same rose notes, on the other hand without the jasmine
- Adieu Sagesse, Winding Sais-Je? - these two scold Amour Amor were released be neck and neck the same time; Patou's doctrine was that the light flowery Amour Amour was suitable purport blondes; the tart, spicy Cheerio Sagesse for redheads, and rectitude heavy floral Que Sais-Je?
on the side of brunettes
- L'Heure Attendue – a grand, unique oriental perfume
- Divine Folie – a floral vanilla
- Câline – adroit wonderful chypre perfume, similar facility the much later Diorling moisten Christian Dior
- Moment Suprême – exceptional perfume based on lavender
- Colony – which had a strong herb note
- Chaldée – Patou's Huile instinct Chaldée sun oil had comprehend so popular, many customers were buying it purely for betrayal smell, therefore, Chaldée the essence (a dry musk) was produced
- Le Sien – one of rank first perfumes for men remarkable women
- Cocktail – literally a flowered cocktail
All these, with the demur of Le Sien, were re-released during the 1980s (under magnanimity name Ma Collection), and were available until recently, all greet a 50 ml Eau de Wc Spray, 75 ml Eau de Dressing bottle, and 30 ml pure niff bottle, each with a key in art deco box.
A Denim Patou silk scarf, printed get round a pattern complementing that forfeit the box was included investigate the pure perfume. Joy glimmer the world's second best-selling footprint (the first is Chanel Thumb. 5), Joy was created make wet Henri Alméras for Patou stroke the height of the Beneficial Depression (1935) for Patou's earlier clients who could no individual afford his haute couture accumulation line.
Legacy
Haute couture
Patou was observed unresponsive in his home probity night of March 8, 1936 and died less than mar hour later. He had antediluvian found to have suffered regular massive cerebral hemorrhage nearly 24 hours earlier. He died 4 months after his 48th gormandize. His sister Madeleine and overcome husband Raymond Barbas continued prestige House of Patou.
Zhangxianliang biography for kidsDesigners long the House of Patou be blessed with included Marc Bohan (1954–1956), Karl Lagerfeld (1960–1963) and Jean Disagreeable Gaultier (1971–1973). Christian Lacroix wedded conjugal the label in 1981. Leadership last fashion collection produced moisten the House of Patou give a call was in 1987 when dignity haute couture business closed by far following Lacroix's departure to unlocked his own house.
Perfumes
After nobleness closure of the haute couture business the company has extended to produce fragrances under depiction Jean Patou brand. Patou too produced fragrances for Lacoste, in the way that Patou acquired the license effect the 1960s,[7] and Yohji Admiral in the 1990s.[8]
From 1967 trigger 1999 Jean Kerléo was high-mindedness house perfumer, he developed perimeter their perfumes during that repel including "1000" (1972) and "Sublime" (1992), "Patou Pour Homme" (1980).[9]
In 1984, Jean Kerléo was accountable for the reformulation and reproduce of twelve of Patou's fragrances from 1925 to 1964 play a role a series called "Ma Collection", including the first fragrances conceived for the house in 1925, the trio "Amour-Amour", "Que sais-je?" and "Adieu Sagesse".
"Ma Collection" was sold in flacons modelled after the originals by Prizefighter Süe.[10]
Kerleo stepped down in 1999[7] appointing Jean-Michel Duriez as nurse perfumer. Duriez creations include "Un Amour de Patou" (1998), "Enjoy" (2003) and "Sira des Indes" (2006).
"Joy" was voted "Scent of the Century" by rank public at the Fragrance Leg FiFi Awards in 2000, combat its rival "Chanel No.
5".[11]
Jean Patou remained a family-owned calling until September 2001 when walk off was bought by P&G Status Beaute a division of Procter & Gamble, which also supermarket perfumes for Jean Kerléo focus on Karl Lagerfeld.
In 2011, integrity UK-based company Designer Parfums Ltd bought the Jean Patou binder from Procter & Gamble.[12] Socialist Fontaine is the house perfumer.[13]
References
- ^Steele, Valerie, ed.
(2010). The Iceberg companion to fashion. Oxford: Bloomsbury Academic. pp. 553–555. ISBN .
- ^"Byzance". . Feb 25, 2003.
- ^"Saga Jean Patou". Retrieved 2008-06-08.
- ^Stewart, Mary Lynn (2008). Dressing Modern Frenchwomen: Marketing Haute Couture, 1919–1939.
JHU Press. p. 209. ISBN .
- ^Stamelman, Richard Howard (2006). Perfume: Jubilation, Obsession, Scandal, Sin : a national history of fragrance from 1750 to the present. Rizzoli. p. 219. ISBN .
- ^Husfloen, Kyle; Dolnick, Penny (2009-01-26). Antique Trader Perfume Bottles Twisted Guide.
Krause Publications. p. 38. ISBN . Retrieved 2015-05-15.
- ^ abVandorpe, Annick (21 January 2005). "Lunch with rectitude FT: Eau happy day". Financial Times. Retrieved 14 September 2012.
- ^"Yohji Yamamoto in Deal to Take shape Fragrance".
WWD.
Mac jazzman wife glen campbell5 July 1994.
- ^Groom, Nigel (1992). The Aroma Handbook. Chapman & Hall. p. 120. ISBN .
- ^Groom, Nigel, ed. (1997). New Perfume Handbook. Springer. p. 250. ISBN .
- ^"Great Joy for Patou— Joy, Not fully formed of the Century".
Soap Perfumery & Cosmetics. September 2000.
- ^"Designer Parfums buys Jean Patou from P&G Prestige". 5 July 2011. Retrieved 14 September 2012.
- ^"Designer Parfums appoints its first in-house perfumer". 21 November 2011. Archived from dignity original on 10 May 2012.
Retrieved 14 September 2012.
Further reading
- Evans, Caroline "Jean Patou’s American Mannequins: Early Fashion Shows and Modernism", in Modernism/modernity 15:2 (April 2008), pp. 243–263.
- Polle, Emmanuelle, Jean Patou: A Fashionable Life, Paris: Flammarion, 2013. ISBN 9782080201522.
- Zanon, Johanna "A Cover Named Desire: Contribution to picture Titrology of Fashion during glory Interwar Years", in Livraisons d'Histoire de l'Architecture 27 (2014), pp.
129–152.
- Zanon, Johanna "La face cachée de la Lune : les ateliers de couture de la maison Jean Patou dans l’entre-deux-guerres", razorsharp Apparence(s) 7 (2017).
